South Africa - Kruger National Park

 

Kruger National Park - this iconic destination in South Africa is world famous and just begs to be explored over and over again. Many visitors return year after year, some spend months in the park. However, not everybody is able to do this so if you only plan one visit in your lifetime, please just do it! It is a must to experience wildlife truly in the wild. 

The following "Hippo" Facts are shared courtesy of Aquila Private Game Reserve and Spa.

 Cape Town's closest Big 5 Experience - 2 Hours from Cape Town -  for those who cannot get to Kruger.

" 1. Hippos Are Often Referred to as River Horses

The hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius) is a semi-aquatic mammal often referred to as a “river horse” because of their fondness for freshwater habitats. This nickname comes from the Greek words hippos (“horse”) and potamós (“river”). However, Hippos are actually more closely related to whales and dolphins than to horses.

2. There Are Two Species of Hippos

There are two species of hippopotamus: the Common Hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius), found across sub-Saharan Africa, and the Pygmy Hippopotamus (Choeropsis liberiensis), which is much smaller and native to West Africa. While the common hippo can weigh up to 3,200 kg (7,000 lbs), pygmy hippos rarely exceed 275 kg (600 lbs).

3. Hippos Are Surprisingly Fast

Despite their bulky bodies, hippos can run up to 30 km/h (18 mph) on land for short distances. In the water, they don’t technically swim but propel themselves by pushing off the riverbed using their powerful legs. Their agility both in and out of the water makes them formidable creatures.

4. They Produce Their Own Sunscreen

Hippos secrete a natural substance that acts as sunscreen! This reddish, oily secretion, often called “blood sweat,” helps protect their skin from the sun’s harsh rays and has antibacterial properties that prevent infections and wounds from getting worse in their often-muddy habitat.

5. Their Yawns Are a Warning

If you see a hippo yawning, don’t assume it’s just sleepy. Hippos use wide-open mouths as a territorial display, warning potential threats to stay away. Their powerful jaws can open to nearly 150 degrees, revealing massive tusks that can grow up to 50 cm (20 inches) long.

6. Hippos Are One of Africa’s Most Dangerous Animals

Though they may look gentle, hippos are responsible for more human fatalities in Africa than lions or crocodiles. Their powerful jaws, territorial nature, and aggressive temperament make them a force to be reckoned with. They are known to capsize small boats and charge at perceived threats with incredible speed.

7. They Communicate Underwater

Hippos are social creatures that communicate through a range of vocalisations, including grunts, bellows, and even ultrasonic sounds that travel underwater. Scientists are still studying these underwater vocalisations, which may help them coordinate group movements and establish dominance in their pods.

8. They Can Hold Their Breath for Several Minutes

Hippos can stay submerged for up to 5-6 minutes at a time, closing their nostrils and ears to keep water out. Even when sleeping in the water, they instinctively rise to the surface to breathe without waking up. These large mammals can spend up to 16 hours a day submerged in water.

9. They Are Closely Related to Whales

Despite their appearance, hippos share a common ancestor with whales and dolphins. Scientists believe they diverged from a shared ancestor around 55 million years ago. This connection explains their semi-aquatic lifestyle and some of their adaptations for life in the water.

10. Baby Hippos Are Born Underwater

When it’s time to give birth, mother hippos retreat to the water, where their calves are born and take their first breaths before surfacing. The calves stay close to their mothers for protection, often resting on their backs while navigating the water. The gestation period for a hippo is about eight months which is incredible if you take into account that baby hippos can weigh up to 50kg (110 lbs) at birth.

11. They Eat Mostly Grass

Hippos are one of the largest land-based herbivores in the world, exceeded in size only by the elephant and some species of rhino. Although they spend most of their time in water, hippos graze on land at night, consuming up to 40 kg (88 lbs) of grass in one feeding session. Despite their large size, they maintain a diet primarily consisting of short grasses, and they rarely eat aquatic plants.

12. Pod Dynamics and Social Structure

Hippos live in groups called “pods”, which can consist of up to 30 individuals, led by a dominant male (bull). The dominant male defends his territory and females (cows), while younger males and subordinates stay on the fringes of the group. Social interactions include play-fighting, vocalisations, and affectionate nudging among pod members.

13. Hippos Can Live for Decades

In the wild, hippos have an average lifespan of 40 to 50 years, but in captivity, they can live even longer—some reaching their late 50s. Their longevity is influenced by environmental factors, predators and human activity.

14. The Conservation Status of Hippos

The common hippo is classified as Vulnerable by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) due to habitat loss and poaching. Pygmy hippos, however, are Endangered, with fewer than 3,000 individuals remaining in the wild. Conservation efforts are crucial in protecting these species from further decline.

15. Habitat and Distribution

Hippos inhabit rivers, lakes, and swamps across sub-Saharan Africa. They require ample water to keep their bodies cool during the day and move onto land to graze at night."

A surprising sight one morning was a group of about 20 vultures feeding off a kill. They flapped around and were also rather curious when a number of cars stopped to view them. We often saw groups of vultures sitting in trees in various parts of Kruger - this was most probably in areas where lions had been present at a kill and they were just waiting for the lion to move off. 

"Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres): Southern Africa’s only endemic vulture. They are massive, pale birds that breed in colonies on mountain cliffs, often seen along the Drakensberg.

• African White-backed Vulture (Gyps africanus): The most common savanna vulture, easily identified by the white feathers on its lower back and neck. They are highly social and the first to arrive at carcasses.
• Lappet-faced Vulture (Torgos tracheliotos): The largest of the bunch, with a wingspan of up to 3 meters. They have a striking pinkish-red head and are the dominant "bullies" at a carcass.
• White-headed Vulture (Trigonoceps occipitalis): Easily recognized by its bright white crown, pale beak, and dark body plumage. They are shy, solitary feeders often found in open savanna.
• Hooded Vulture (Necrosyrtes monachus): A small, dark-brown vulture with a long, slender bill. They prefer wooded savannas and will eagerly forage for smaller scraps.
• Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus): Also known as the Lammergeier, these "bone-breakers" specialize in dropping bones from heights to consume the marrow. They are confined entirely to the Maloti-Drakensberg mountain range in South Africa " 

Zebras are often spotted in Kruger - these are Plains Zebra also known as Burchell's Zebra. Zebra are usually found in open grasslands and fairly close to water sources. They live in family groups, called "harems" - there is usually one dominant stallion, mares and their foals. Zebras will happily consume tough or low quality grasses that other animals cannot digest. This leaves the better grasses for the more selective grazers like impala and wildebeest. Having said that, we were in Kruger after major rains so all grass was lush and green, making it a treat for all, including elephants! Zebras are also very curious, yet placid, and extremely photogenic. The zebra above was enjoying a good head scratch while watching us at the same time. They also appear to love resting their heads on each other!

Elephants - what can I say! My favourite animal, although I do love them all. 

Males can weigh up to 6 tons and stand 4 meters tall - these are the ones to be wary of, especially when they are in musth. The males are often spotted alone whereas the herds always have a matriarch, teenagers, babies and grown females. Watching them take turns at a river or water hole is fascinating. When the matriarch decideds that time is up, you need to listen for that stern trumpeting. If the teenagers don't listen, an even louder trumpet call can be heard. They are truly magnificent animals and with a population of over 31,000 in the park you should spot them every now and again. Just never get between a mother and her calf and always allow them room to cross the road. Reverse if required. 

Kruger landscapes are beautiful when there are no animals around - with so many trees, high points and various terrains, it is just as much about the scenery as the animals. 

The Kruger National Park is approx. 350 km long and 60 km wide. Covering 2 million hectares it remains one of the biggest nature conservation areas in the world. Don't be fooled by distances - with the speed limits (50 km on tar and 40km on gravel) and animal sightings sometimes one only covers a small section each day. With over 3000 km of roads, your journey needs to be planned well in order to get the most out of this iconic destination.

This hippo was enjoying a spot between the rocks with water splashing over him, like a jacuzzi! We watched him for ages, hippo bliss. The very next day, we returned to Sabie River bridge where the water was gushing past after night-time rains. Needless to say, no hippo. We just hope he escaped in time. 

The bird life in Kruger is fascinating - if they sit still long enough to be captured by the camera. At this same spot on the Sabie Bridge, we watched a White Backed Night Heron fishing in the raging river where the hippo had been lazing the previous day. The bird appeared to be unaware of the croc getting closer and closer but he did take off eventually after catching a number of small fish being washed downstream. 

There are 11 Entrance gates, however, during the rainy season some roads and gates may be closed so always check. There are a number of private lodges inside Kruger so there are accommodations from camping to luxury to suit all tastes and pockets! The private lodges venture on roads that are not open to the public so this does make for a very special wildlife experience. We have previously enjoyed a short stay at Singita Lebombo and those memories will live on forever! 

There are a number of Guided Wilderness Walking Trails

NB: Maximum 8 people with age restrictions 

Bushman Trail near Berg n Dal

Olifants Trail near Olifants River

Napi Trail between Skukuza and Pretoriuskop

Sweni Trail  neat N'wanetsi

Wolhuter Trail between Berg n Dal and Pretoriuskop

For those who love birds, there are over 500 species in the park.

Watch out for the Big 6 - Saddle-billed Stork, Martial Eagle, Ground Hornbill, Kori Buzzard, Lappet-Faced Vulture, and Pet's Fishing Owl

                                                                                                                                                                             

   

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Kruger is also home to approx. 1500 to 2000 or so lions so they are not always easy to spot

Leopards are solitary animals and often rest up a tree during the day and prefer areas close to water or in riverine woodlands. 

Cheetah are in the region of approx. 200 so finding these in a 2 million hectare reserve is not for the feint-hearted. They also prefer open savannahs and the riverine areas.

The photogenic Impala are prolific with around 180,000 in Kruger. The males have these stunning horns. They gather in large herds, often male or female-only. Their jumping ability is second to none - being able to jump up to 3 meters high and as much as 10 m in length often gets them away from danger. They are hunted by lion, leopard, wild dogs and cheetah. We listened to a male releasing very loud, guttural sounds at one stop but we could not see what he was warning anybody about as there was nothing else visible. But he sure did make a huge noise for a minute or so. 

Male Impala

Crocodiles can be spotted in the following areas - Sunset Dam, near Lower Sabie, Crocodile Bridge, Lower Sabie Bridge, Lake Panic and the Olifants and Letabe Rivers. The Nile Crocodile is the only species in Africa. As they are cold-blooded they spend hours in the sun to regulate their body temperature. 

Sunset Dam - Crocodile

We watched a croc in the river at Lower Sabie Bridge get closer and closer to the bird - with the mouth wide open in the hopes of catching drifting prey also. Those teeth are enough to give one nightmares! The crocodiles are well camouflaged so not always easy to spot in the water. 

Crocodile in river at Lower Sabie Bridge

Do buy some books and maps in the beautiful Park Shops as this area is truly huge and the animals are varied and plentiful. Don't despair if you drive and see nothing - maybe around the next corner you are likely to find something interesting, whether a bird, a tortoise, a hyena, a huge elephant or just a stunning tree. Absorb the bush wholeheartedly - it is a place where one visit never seems like enough.

Self-Drive Safari's - Hire a car and explore at your own pace

Sunrise/Sunset Drives - Join a SAN Parks Drive - available at all camps and lodges

Photographic Safaris - These are more specialized tours with equipped vehicles

For more information check out the official websites

https://www.krugernationalpark.org.za

https://www.sanparks.org

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

          For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

  www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Mpumalanga

A very lazy leopard having an afternoon siesta in Kruger Park, South Africa

South Africa has many gems, some hidden and some easily accessible - it's such a vast country with incredibly different landscapes and a mix of climates. Sometimes, the weather can be different just 10 minutes drive away. Or it can be the same for miles and miles.

We recently returned to Mpumalanga - a favourite province for both landscapes and wildlife.

This 2014 trip was more of an R&R vacation as the past summer season 2013/2014 has been so hectic at Bradclin Portfolio - www.bradclin.com so my thoughts were more on trying to relax away from the business that concentrating on writing a blog!

We chose to fly to Johannesburg and drive from the airport as the airfares direct from Cape Town to Nelspruit are rather expensive. However, this is the obvious choice if you have limited time.
To my mind the best parts of Mpumalanga are in the areas surrounding Nelspruit, White River, Sabie, Graskop, Pilgrim's Rest and Blyde River Canyon. The drive from Johannesburg has many e-tolls (car license number taken and account sent) and other tolls where cash or credit cards are accepted. It becomes quite an expensive journey with all the tolls on the N12 and N4 but the pay-off is a great road.

Kruger Park:
Most visitors to South Africa try to include a visit to Kruger Park in their itinerary. This vast National Park remains one of my favourite locations and there is just nothing to beat the sighting of a wild animal going about it's daily life. Please do remember that the game roam freely - you can drive for miles and see nothing on one day and get to see a vast variety of game on another day. It's perhaps best to stay at a private lodge or take an organised game drive if you have limited time.

The Lion Pride on a Hippo Carcass - not the best pic but this was fascinating to watch.

We first stayed at Ngwenya Lodge, 9 kms from the Crocodile Gate into Kruger Park. Our first drive into the Kruger Park brought many sightings throughout the day (a long 8 hours but it passes so quickly when you spot game!) A most unusual sighting was a lion kill of a hippo near a small waterhole/dam. My theory was that the hippo had lost its way as the pool of water was not large and did not seem to be "hippo" friendly. The lion pride was about 15 strong and they had obviously finished eating as most of them wandered off to seek some shade soon after we arrived at the site. The pride left 2 sentries to guard the carcass and although these 2 looked fast asleep, as soon as the vultures ventured closer, they sprang up and chased the birds away. It was a comical sight and I have never seen so many vultures together before. There must have been at least 30 - 40 birds, all sitting waiting very patiently for the lions to allow them to join in the feast! One bird would slowly venture towards the carcass, all the while keeping an eye on the "sleeping" lioness. The lions allowed them to reach a certain distance and then, BOOM, they would explode into action. Who needs movies, when this sort of scenario is playing itself out?

As with all great sightings, there are many vehicles around so it is only fair to move on after awhile and allow somebody else to get a closer look. I call it "Game Viewing Etiquette" - some people are just road hogs but most park enthusiasts will behave well.

Not the huge rhino that gave us heart failure! He was too fast for a photo!

Driving slowly along, peering out of our windows for game, we all nearly jumped out of our seats when a HUGE rhino exploded out of the bush to the left of us, screeched to a halt in the middle of the road, gave us the evil eye, and then took off like a bolt of lightning. The driver jammed on his brakes even though we were only doing about 30 km per hour and we all sat in silence, simply stunned by this huge beast that vanished as if it had been a ghostly sighting. Far too fast for a photo and just such an incredible experience.  My son, who worked in the Kruger for many years, had never seen such a large animal - it was simply awesome. Rhino poachers cannot have any morals or a conscience of any sort, to mutilate, maim and kill these magnificent beasts purely for their horns. Human nature is sometimes totally incomprehensible.

A lovely sighting at a bird hide, were a group of hippo frolicking in the river. Their huge bodies glisten from the water, their mouths open in wide yawns and their "chatter" is deep, serious and often sounds grumpy. Whilst they look so peaceful, just wallowing around, these animals are one of the most dangerous, accounting for many human deaths. So do not try and swim with the hippos - they are not very friendly!!

The day passed in a blur of animals sightings, changing scenery, wide open spaces or thick bush where one cannot spot anything, meandering rivers, lazy crocodiles and a breakfast stop at Lower Sabie. The restaurants at the Kruger Camps have been rather poor for many years now so it was bliss finding a brand new Mugg & Bean set-up at Lower Sabie - great service, good food, modern facilities and an all-round good experience. Apparently, all the camps are being revamped with either Mugg & Bean or Wimpy. Anything would be better than the oily toasted sandwich we had at Skukuza a few days later.

Nelspruit - Mbombela:
Nelspruit is a thriving town in the Lowveld and has a number of shopping centres, a great climate and enough restaurants to keep most people happy. We always enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the Lowveld Botanical Gardens, so we headed off one morning for a leisurely stroll amidst the trees.

Green is one of my favourite colours for relaxation and these gardens are pure green. Boasting a huge collection of trees on the Tree Walk, the signboards make for interesting reading as they give some history, local folklore and medicinal uses. The gardens were original started in 1969 with the official opening happening on 10/09/1971. A must walk is through the African Rain Forest on the Sappi Aerial Boardwalk which also connects to the Visitor Centre where you can break for something to eat at the Kuzuri Restaurant. The Nelspruit Cascade Falls are spectacular, cascading over the huge boulders in the Crocodile River - it's a great photo stop and the boardwalk takes you to many vantage spots. Tons of water from the Crocodile River cascades through a granite gorge to the pools below.

Crystal Springs Mountain Resort:
Our last week-end was spent at Crystal Springs Mountain Resort, high up on Robbers Pass, Pilgrims Rest. Now this is the place for some serious R&R! It's a very large resort with everything on tap.
Restaurant, shop, wood bundles, putt-putt, tennis, squash and a games room. The resort also has wild game and you can choose to drive in your own vehicle or take an organised game drive of about 3 hours. The ranger will give much information so this is certainly worth it. We chose to go in our own vehicle and were lucky to see many giraffe, warthogs, and buck. There are a number of hiking trails - perfect for that early morning exercise in brisk, fresh air! Take hiking sticks or collect these at Reception. I would recommend taking sticks as the hike we did was very stony so the sticks certainly assist with balancing. Being so high up, the nights were chilly so we loved the Jacuzzi and hot pool!
Best to book the Jacuzzi (30 mins) if you don't want to share! They also have a sauna and steam room. We found this a perfect way to end the day. Warmed up, we could head back to the unit to enjoy the evenings tipple in front of a roaring fire!

The Gorgeous Scenery in the Reserve at Crystal Mountain Springs

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

Thanks!

South Africa - Travel in Mpumalanga

God's Window

Mpumalanga in South Africa, is a great province to visit, offering a variety of scenery with the biggest bonus  being Kruger Park. We took an early morning flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg - how people can be so cheerful so early in the morning is beyond me. The airport was buzzing with many smiling travellers while all I could think of was the warm bed that I had just deserted. Kulula offers a good service between the two cities - just remember to have cash with you if you require a sandwich or drink as they do not accept credit cards or foreign currency.

Landing in Johannesburg, we headed off to find our car rental - they were unable to supply us with any maps - is this a sign of the times or were we just stuck with a stingy car hire company? First Car Rental perhaps should read Last Car Rental? Luckily, we had borrowed a GPS and this got us out of the airport without a hassle. If you take the incorrect turning out of  OR Tambo Airport, you may wander lost for hours!

The road east is rather boring and flat for us Capetonions so used to seeing our beloved Table Mountain. However, the scenery does improve as one gets deeper into Mpumalanga. Our first stop was Gunyatoo Trout Farm where we were given a spacious family log cabin. More peaceful surroundings would be hard to find with millions of stars visible at night - if you are brave enough to venture out in the chill night air. Saturday dawned clear and warm so we headed off to Sabie on the logging road (gravel) Brunch was enjoyed at the Smokeys Pub. This pub has a train as part of the building so one can choose to sit in the compartments or in the pub or outside in the sunshine. This pub is beautifully decorated with various oddments such as an old switchboard, a large live parrot who can drink out of a can and many funny signs. The menu is large, too large, as the food was very average. But a great place to visit. It was like a summer's day - wonderful after the cold Cape Town weather. There is a rather neglected Putt-Putt course below the restaurant which we decided to try and it turned out to be great fun in the sun. It would be nice if the owners kept the course in better condition though as each person is charged R12.00.

Sunday was another brilliant, warm day and fly-fishing was the first item on the lazy day agenda. So off we all trotted to the dam which is very pretty in the morning light. Sadly though, despite their best efforts, not a single bite from a trout! A big brunch, a lively board game, some beers, then being taken for a walk by the farm dogs, all added up to a very relaxing day. Fly-Fishing featured on the late afternoon menu but James was the only one to catch a brief glimpse of a fish which then vanished rapidly into the depths again!

Trying to get out of bed on Monday morning was sheer torture as the temperature had plummeted so drastically. We said a good-bye to our host Debbie and set off on the pot-holed road to White River. Apparently, this road was fixed fairly recently but the first heavy rains washed out all the holes again! One wonders how this could happen if the road has been properly fixed in the first place? The road is used by the many trucks carrying timber so the holes will just get worse and the next repair is only scheduled in 7 years time. Seems like a policy that is very flawed - one would think that ongoing road repairs are a matter of road safety?

We enjoyed a dinner at Gum Treez in White River as they were lucky enough to have power! The electricity suddenly went out at approx 18.00 hrs and cast much of White River into darkness. A good meal was enjoyed by all.

Today we watched the Scottish Rugby team doing their practice warm-ups and training  before setting off the Jane Goodall Chimp Sanctuary outside of Nelspruit. Robert assisted us on arrival - he hails from Swaziland which is still ruled by the Swazi King. Government officials are elected by the people whilst the Prime Minister is elected by the King. Robert says that Swazi's are good-natured people and it remains a safe country. His wife and family live in Swaziland whist he has explored various work  options in South Africa, mainly in the hotel industry although he did a 6 month stint in the mines just for the experience which he did not enjoy! Our guide, Jason, took us to 2 enclosures where the chimps live. One does not enter the enclosures which are surrounded by electric wires. The chimps total 34 based in 3 camps. The oldest chimp,who looks like a wizened old man, is 67 and the youngest is 4 months. Contraceptives are placed in the female chimps so that breeding does not take place but this was an accident obviously! At first it was thought that the chimp had a tumour - this myth was dispelled by a scan at Medi-Clinic where it was ascertained that the chimp was pregnant!!! The mother and baby are in separate quarters not accessible to the public. As South Africa is not hot enough for chimps, they are housed inside at night. Sleeping either in hammocks or on beds of straw, they also have heaters in their quarters to keep the chill off during the winter nights. Breeding is not an option as the chimps cannot be released into the wild anywhere in South Africa. All have been rescued, some tales are very distressing. Chimps are sold as pets or for "bush" meat so illegal poaching continues in African countries. Two chimps were kept in a cage designed for an African Grey parrot.

Jane Goodall is now 79 and will most probably no longer visit the sanctuary after her 2013 trip. One hopes that her vision will live on and that these chimps will continue to live out their lives in peace. They certainly look well and comfortable - the only one to "perform" kept taking a long run-up, clutching small stones in his hand which he threw at the onlookers and then he clapped heartily as if to say " I gotcha!" Whist all the other chimps wandered off when the food supply stopped, he sat sucking his thumb with a forlorn look on his face as if to say " please come back and play with me"

Day in Kruger National Park

For me an early start! Breakfast at Zanna's just opposite Casterbridge was a good start to the morning. A stunning cat kept asking for food but we resisted as it is VERY well fed! Zanna's is open from 07.00 week-days and from 08.00 week-ends so it a good spot to stop for breakfast on the way to either Kruger or Numbi gate. We chose to go in via Kruger gate - this took about an hour from White River due to road works and crazy drivers who have no regard for white lines or blind rises. Bad driving in Mpumalanga seems the order of the day. Perhaps time for the cops to start fining and patrolling?

Entrance to the park was quick and easy and we headed off  in brilliant sunshine. We took the H4-1 towards Sabie and were lucky to spot a huge buffalo, giraffe in a group of  about 9, zebra, a large the herd of elephants with a massive bull elephant and babies. Waterbuck, a stunning speciman of male kudu, many impala, and about 6 hippo sunning themselves on the sandy banks of the Sabie. We cut across the S21 headed back towards Numbi Gate and spotted another male elephant quietly browsing. There were apparently 2 lion lying in the grass but we were too low down in our tiny rental car so could not see them. A quick toilet stop at Numbi gate and then out of the park after a glorious day.

The road from Numbi is full of pot holes - beware! It seems that road maintenance is not high on the list of priorities here and the roads have deteriorated substantially since we last visited about 2 years ago. One has to wonder what the municipality does with their funds as it obviously does not go towards road maintenance! However, after this bad stetch, it was plain sailing to White River - much quicker than going via Kruger Gate.

We both needed our medication so headed to Nelspruit Clicks for our scripts. I have to say full marks to this pharmacy - the chaps were extremely helpful and very friendly. It is such a pleasure dealing with people who are quite happy to go the extra mile.

Day Drive Sabie - Graskop - God's Window - Bourke's Potholes - Blyde River Canyon

Another glorious day in Mpumalanga and a drive to view some of the famous sites along the Panorama Route was called for. So we set off towards Sabie  where we encountered an organised burn of the grasses next to the road. Oh my gosh, the smoke was so think we could not see a thing ahead and when I looked out of my window, I saw flames jumping right next to my door. Freaky and dangerous - the guys should have stopped us until the smoke cleared as our car could have caught alight. One realises the enormous value of controlled fire breaks and grass burns in this area as it is forested for miles and miles. However, perhaps they need to be a teeny bit more cautious letting cars through in zero visibilty?

This area is surrounded by plantations, all with different names. One climbs up and up to Sabie which lies in a valley. The road then carries on to Graskop where you can stop for a hike or walk to the many waterfalls in the area. Sabie Falls and Bridal Veil Falls are in the Sabie area. Mac-Mac is a stunning area and one can swim in the pools or take a walk along the river. Lisbon Falls, Berlin Falls, Horseshoe Falls and Lone Creek Falls are all in this area - choose one or do them all if you enough time in the Sabie/Graskop region. Graskop has numerous restaurants, many of them appear to serve pancakes! I am not sure why this is so but do know that Harries Pancake's has been around for ages in Graskop - perhaps everybody else has copied them or maybe the locals just love pancakes?

God's Window was our next stop. The views from here are simply wonderful, even though the skies are often hazy. The smoke from the controlled burns did not help the visibility in this area. Curio sellers abound here so you shop for souvenirs to take home or small mementoes of your holiday.

Our next stop was to a view point before Bourke's Potholes where we chanced upon a bush pub and restaurant set on the banks of the Treur River. Called Pot Luck Restaurant it's quaint and different. The food is cooked on open fires and an old coal-fired stove. Rustic and basic, they cater for weddings (???) in true bush style and enjoy the patronage of many overseas visitors to the region. The "View Point" sign is, of course, the catch - one drives down this road and over a very unstable looking bridge to come to a parking area where the pub is situated. Good marketing of a "View Point" !! As they sell mainly quarts of beer, we abstained as we still had much driving to do. It was also not time for a large 300gr steak! However, certainly worth a look and if you are hungry or thristy, why not? The toilets are set a little way back as they are "long drops" - I have not used one of these since my very early childhood days in our holiday bungalow in Mossel Bay. I was always so terrified of falling down this smelly hole or worse, some horrid spider biting me on the bum! I decided that the pit stop could wait!

Bourke's Potholes are an incredible feat of nature's swirling pebbles and gushing water from the Treur and Blyde Rivers. Huge holes, so smooth they look like black chocolate coating on rocks! Deep and dark it is very difficult to capture the immense cavities on camera. One can walk up to the river for awhile - crystal clear water tumbling over stones as it has done for centuries. A truly dramatic spot.

Time was running out but we drove another 15 km or so to the first viewpoint over the Blyde River canyon - so very beautiful, this is something one just has to gaze at in awe. A few days in the canyon area would be ideal as there is much scenery to enjoy in this majestic 20 km long canyon. Hikes, white river rafting, abseiling, boat trips, or a circular drive will show you the immense beauty of this region.

A great day out in incredible scenery and wonderful sunshine - the roads are very good with very few potholes! large trucks carrying timer are a common sight but most pull over to allow one to pass. The road back down to White River from Sabie is downhill all the way - hope your brakes are in good condition!

Chinese food finished off the evening - great personal service from owner, Sue who was eager for us to try her new creations. And all was delicious so we wish her well in her "new" venture in White River.

And we leave White River for Malelane....

Another glorious sunny day (I do so love my T-Shirts and shorts apparel!!) as we check out of Ingenyama to head off to Malelane.
This drive is again so different as the farms lining the roads are fertile with oranges, mielies, sugar cane and other crops. The orange trees look stunning with their golden crop just waiting to be picked. Malelane is a bustling town with many beautiful homes and plenty of accomodation. We are based on the banks of the Crocodile River and animal watching is right on our doorstep.

A herd of 5 elephants were grazing just below the Kruger Park fence, the hippos keep talking in grunts to each other, we spied a white goat whose days may well be numbered as he/she is in the Kruger Park and just waiting to become lion food. Clinton & Virginia left Maputo at 17.30 and it took them 5.5 hrs to reach Malelane! Total gridlock leaving Maputo. One wonders when the powers that be will build an alternative route out of Maputo?

Our Self-Catering cottage ran out of gas on Saturday morning and we had to wait for over 2 hours for a replacement cylinder which made us very late with breakfast. We eventually left for Mbombela Stadium for the double header of rugby. Samoa against Italy was a great game with Samoa walking away with the game. We went down to get some food - queues! The 2nd game was between South Africa and Scotland. Having seen Scotland practising hard all week at the hotel where we were staying, I found myself shouting for their team until their Number 5 caused a ruckus and was sent off with a yellow card. This seemed to fire up the South African team who then went on to win the match. A great stadium and a great atmosphere!

The drive back to Malelane was fine, just very dark and with many trucks still on the road between Maputo and Nelspruit.

Sunday - Father's Day and the queue for the Malelane Kruger Park gate was about 3 km long so we turned round, bought breakfast goodies from the Super Spar and stayed in our SC unit in the sunshine. Unfortunately, no animals showed themselves to us today. Board games in the sun were fun, with the occasional Fish Eagle call to make us look in vain for more animals! 

Day in Kruger via Malelane Gate

Success today - no queue to get into the park - yeah!!!

Blue skies, fluffy white clouds, quiet roads and ANIMALS!!! We spent from 09.00 until 17.00 in the park and enjoyed a really successful day of animal spotting with a break at Lower Sabie Camp for lunch. Hippo's, giraffe, elephant, warthogs, rhino (most probably the only ones left in the park), vervet monkeys, baboons, kudu, wildebeest, zebra, impala, water buck, buffalo (a huge herd) various birds - unfortunately, no lions or leopards. Kruger Park is such a special place and can be re-visited countless times. Animals are fascinating to watch - we saw zebra scratching themselves on tree branches for ages. they turned around and did the massage from the other side as well - very funny to watch. And free! No massage parlour required. A giraffe was also looking very amorous and kept sniffing the female. He looked set to get lucky when, unfortunately, another giraffe appeared on the scene and the female decided that 3 was not conducive to any romantic play.  The little baby vervet monkeys were drinking at the river bed - very daintily and so cute. The rhinos were grazing very peacefully and it is such a shame that perverted people have to destroy these magnificent, peaceful grazers. Suddenly, something spooked them and they scurried off into the bush. Poachers are a huge problem in Kruger Park and one hopes the rangers will eventually win the battle before the species is extinct. Elephants are always an awesome sight and watching the herds drink, browse and then form a straight line back into the dense bush, is just something special. Giraffe are inquisitive animals and look at one with their beautiful eyes - the impala also have these liquid eyes - so incredibly stunning. Impala are fairly common so one tends to ignore them as "traffic" after awhile - however, they are truly beautiful buck and worth watching.

The herd of buffalo was a special find - large beasts, not quite as ugly as wildebeest, but most impressive. Wildebeest -only their mothers can love them?
The zebra, wildebeest, impala are often spotted together - for protection maybe?

All in all, a simply stunning day with the most magnificent sunset to escort us out of the park.

One of the "must do's" in South Africa - however, animals are not very visible in rain and sometimes a day or more is required as the park is huge.
Do be patient, keep your eyes peeled at all times and you are sure to spot game. It's an exciting destination - as locals we love our country and hope you will too!

Sadly, our short break has come to and end and we are headed back to Cape Town. The weather throughout our stay was superb - hot and sunny during the day with cold nights. No rain at all during the trip except for a very short shower one night when staying near Sabie.

Until next time....

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

www.bradclin.com

South Africa - Bush Luxury at Singita Lebombo

SINGITA LEBOMBO EXPERIENCE

No 1 Safari Lodge in the 25th Edition of Travel & Leisure 2020
SOUTH AFRICA

Singita – just the name conjures up romantic ideas! We couldn’t wait to get there!

We landed at Kruger International to lovely warm air and a beautiful thatch airport building – the prettiest airport I have ever seen. We spent some time driving around the scenic Long Tom Pass before booking into our cottage on a Macadamian nut farm just outside Hazyview for the night. A gentle stroll down to the riverbank ended up as a quick sprint back as we spied large hippo prints! We had not quite believed our hosts that there were hippo in the river but faced with the evidence we turned tail pretty fast! 

The locals in this area use wheelbarrows to fetch and carry from the store and we found this far more picturesque than Pick & Pay trollies! Someone has made a mint out of wheelbarrows or maybe someone lost a mint somewhere. Who knows!

After a large breakfast we set off for the Paul Kruger gate and entered the Kruger Park with great excitement. I had not been to Kruger since the early 70’s and we stopped every time we heard a rustle or saw a branch moving!

After a leisurely drive with lots of game sightings, we arrived at Singita Lebombo to be welcomed with a glass of ice-cold homemade lemonade and hospitality second to none.

     

Singita Lebombo is a private concession in the Kruger Park and has been built in the most environmentally friendly manner possible. The architecture is stunning, all glass, wood, reeds and open spaces. No curtains or drapes, the bush and river view are just out there! The bedrooms are large and airy with curtains near the bed, but only for the sun – the rest of the room is open to the bush so for those who are shy, it would not be the place to visit! The wild animals don’t really care if you wear clothes or not!

We spied a lazy croc down below in the river sunning himself every day. The sounds of the water over the weir and the hippos with their loud calls lulled us to sleep every night. The large bath overlooked the bush, as did the open air shower. For the cold nights there is also an indoor shower. There is a bed outside on the balcony but we resisted that temptation!

 

 An early morning start to the game drive (5.30am) nearly killed me but it was worth it. The animals are free to roam all over Kruger, which is a huge park so it is very exciting when the tracker spots lion hiding in the grass. They are just about impossible to see as they blend in so well with their surroundings. The off-road bumps were the most fun when the tracker spotted animals in the bush. On one game drive we got to within a few feet of a large male elephant – he started to charge and I got such a fright that my finger froze on the shutter! When I eventually clicked, I was shaking so much that the photo turned out unusable! The driver and tracker both were as cool as cucumbers and informed us that it was just a “mock” charge. They insisted that they could spot a true charge and would reverse at full throttle in plenty of time! Luckily, this was not put to the test as the huge “Ellie” did indeed back off.

The afternoon game drives start off at the Long Bar at 3.30pm for smoothies, tea, and delicious goodies to eat. The Long Bar has stunning views over the Kruger and with luxurious seating all around it is a must for drinks at any time of the day or night.

A boma dinner was a great way to get to know the guide as well as fellow guests. The staff does an impromptu song and dance and their enthusiasm is a joy to see for both the overseas and local guests. To add to the sense of adventure, guides escort you to and from your room after dark at all times. With their torches flashing, one is on the look out for those yellow eyes glowing in the dark!

Log fires keep you warm at night and the long swimming pool keeps you cool during the day. Lazing on the lounger, gazing over the vast wilderness just slows you down and makes one appreciate the finer things in life.

The smell of the bush, the excitement of a good game spotting, the comfort of a hot water bottle on the morning drive, the sounds of the hippo or the roar of a lion, a crazy baboon emptying our fridge and daring to steal my chocolate, a lazy dinner with our fellow travellers, the American honeymoon couple who could not stop apologising for the actions of their President, George W. Bush, watching the early morning mist rise over the river, the friendly greetings from all the staff………………

These are the things that I will long remember about our stay at Singita Lebombo.

     

      

The only problem with this was that it took me over a week to get back into office mode on my return home! Oh well, what is work anyway…….

© Judelle Drake

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradclinphotography

                For Accommodation Cape Town, South Africa

                                      www.bradclin.com